1/4 cup vegetable oil 1/3 cup flour 1 medium onion, chopped 2 stalks celery, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 medium fresh (!) tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 cup fish stock or clam juice 1/2 tsp basil 1/4 tsp thyme 1 bay leaf freshly ground black pepper 1 lb shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 med/lg scallions, including the greens, chopped 1 tsp hot sauce
This is what's known as a black roux; it has more flavor, but it's also easier to burn. If you're really into it, practice making roux by itself; flour and oil are cheap, and the technique, once learned, is worth the effort. Also, using a very heavy pan (cast iron or Calphalon) makes it a lot easier.
The original author had this to say about making roux: "For the inexperienced, making the roux can be tricky. Be certain stir the roux constantly (I mean constantly!) or it will burn. If you see dark flecks forming in the roux, you blew it; it's best to throw it out and start over. Think of it this way -- until you've done it a few times, operate under the following edict: "You can't stir the roux too much." Cook the roux until it turns "peanut butter brown" or darker."
The original recipe called for a small green bell pepper, seeded and diced, to be cooked along with the onion and celery, and there are those that would brand me a heretic for leaving out this ingredient. So be it -- I just don't like bell peppers.
Once you start stirring the roux, you really can't stop; for this reason, I suggest putting the onion, celery, garlic, and bell pepper (if you use it) in a bowl and keeping it close at hand, so you can grab it and dump it in without having to stop stirring. There's a bit more time with the rest of the ingredients, but I find it easier to have the tomatoes in a second bowl and everything else in a third, and again, close at hand.
The original recipe also called for crayfish, but noted that shrimp and lobster also work well.
Again, from the original author: "Use only fresh tomatoes, even if they're the supermarket hot-house variety. The first few times I made this stuff it was awful; I later learned why -- I had substituted canned tomatoes for fresh tomatoes."
The original author suggested substituting one tablespoon of Paul Prudhomme's Poultry Magic in place of the basil and thyme; I, on the other hand, abhor prepared spice mixes (and they usually contain too much salt).
About the hot sauce: How much and what kind you use is really up to you. I prefer "El Yucateco," which is habanero-based and packs quite a punch; one teaspoon may not be enough for you but this dish isn't supposed to be spicy, just have a little kick to it. While most hot sauces will work, I find that Tabasco and "Inner Beauty" just don't taste right.
Serve over white rice with celery seed coleslaw, green beans, and corn bread.
Time: One hour, more or less, depending on how long it takes to peel and devein the shrimp.
Precision: 2.
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